mai 2019

Is the bike helmet mandatory?

Since March 22, 2017, if the helmet is mandatory for children under 12, it is not for adults. Despite numerous government attempts and awareness campaigns that emphasize the essential aspect of the helmet, this obligation severely divides the community.
Associations such as the French Federation of Bicycle Users (FUB)  point out that among the injured cyclists,  47.5% are mostly affected by the arms, 32.6% to the legs, 23.3% to the face and only 16, 9% to the head.
Another argument, in Europe, only Finland has made the wearing of helmets mandatory (but no fine for infringement) and countries such as the Netherlands or Germany, where cycling is extremely widespread have not any obligation to wear a helmet …
Without questioning the effectiveness of the helmet, the associations want to raise awareness and educate all road users, while leaving the free choice of helmet use.
Wearing a helmet does not guarantee a 100% protection, because, beyond 30 km / h, its efficiency decreases sharply (in the city as in training, it is a speed easily reached by the cyclist or the vehicle which arrives in front). Not to mention that the helmets are often poorly positioned on the head or the wrong size …
In the absence of legislation and really convincing data on the need to make wearing helmets mandatory, everyone is free to decide for the moment according to their use, their environment, and their experience. Personally, I am adept at the saying “prevention is better than cure”, so it’s a helmet on my head every time I go rolling.

What criteria to choose your road bike helmet?

In addition to protecting our little skull, a road bike helmet must also be comfortable, aerodynamic (for the most competitive of us), practical, do not weigh a dead donkey and if possible, pretty (although the aestheticism in cycling, when we see the teams pro outfits … it does not seem to be a big concern for them).
Manufacturers offering many models, how to navigate? Because you can sweat (literally as well as figuratively) if you take an aero helmet to cycle. And what are the differences between a headset at € 30 and another at more than € 300?
Here are some tips to help you choose a road bike helmet for your practice and budget.

Which helmet for which purpose?

You already have an ATV or BMX helmet and you want to use it on the road. Is it possible? Yes, the safety standards are the same for all bike helmets. But is it a good idea? Not so sure.
If ATV, BMX or DH helmets offer more protection, especially at the back of the neck than a road helmet, they are especially heavier and have a visor. The position is not the same on an ATV as on a road bike, where one is leaning on the front, the visor can quickly reduce the field of vision. And in town, it’s not really recommended … Besides the helmets or bowls are much less ventilated than the road helmets. it may soon get hot! 
In short, you will understand, not all helmets are suitable for all practices. A short review of the different helmet profiles to see more clearly:

The traditional helmet

This is the classic helmet that comes immediately to mind when talking about road helmet: lightweight and well ventilated, suitable for long outings as the competition, the traditional road helmet is very versatile. It can accompany you on the road as well as cyclocross competitions or during your daily cycling trips.
Personally, I use two helmets:
  • a Cairn Prism for the vélotaf and the cyclocross
  • Btwin 900 for long road trips and triathlons
The Cairn is very light, comfortable and it even replaced my Btwin helmet for this winter!

The aero helmet

There, we talk about these big helmets that we cross on time trials or triathlons and that make you look vaguely like a fly. 
These helmets favor aerodynamics over all other criteria. Therefore, they are generally heavier, poorly ventilated (and aesthetically questionable). Reserved for wild sprints, criteriums and more generally competitors, these profiled helmets are capable of saving cyclists several watts. Provided, of course, to have the thighs to reach the speeds where these helmets are interesting.
If you’re chasing the clock, you’re a tough competitor favoring short distances, the aero helmet can be a good buy to complete your equipment. For others, a traditional or semi-aero helmet will be more interesting.

The semi-aero helmet

The hybrid class between the traditional road bike helmet and the aero helmet to combine the benefits of aerodynamics with the benefits of lightweight materials. This is the current big trend of the helmet industry, models like Giro Synthe and Kask Protone belong to this category. 
A semi-aero helmet can be a smart choice if you only want one helmet for your training and competitions. You will benefit from a bicycle helmet well ventilated, light while being aerodynamic. In addition to being practical, these helmets are aesthetically successful. Bonus style to shine in the grupetto 😉

The urban cycling helmet for cycle bike with style

Essential for the cyclist who uses his bike to get to work every day, urban helmets are still a category apart. Comfortable, practical, they must above all be reassuring. Less ventilated than a classic road bike helmet because used on short trips, they are often round, bowl-shaped, with a short visor to protect from the sun and rain. Design is important and you can find matte finishes, leather or even carbon on the most upscale models. 
Some, like the Abus Hyban, even incorporate a lamp in the back for optimal visibility.

How to find the size of your bike helmet?

This is the most important criterion in choosing a bike helmet! The latter must be perfectly adapted and not move on your head, without shaking your forehead, temples, and throat. Too loose, a helmet will not hold in place and will not protect you. Too tight, you will have irritation and pain. An adapted bicycle helmet must be able to be worn for hours without embarrassment.
To find your height, simply use a tape measure and then pass it around your head in the middle of the forehead and on the most convex part of the back of your skull (the occipital hump) while passing over ears. A small explanation in the image: 
Once your measurement carried out, here is an indicative guide of the different sizes (which can vary according to the marks so read well the label inside the helmet):
  • S: 48 – 56cm
  • M: 52 – 58cm
  • L: 59 – 62cm
  • XL: 63 – 64cm
If your helmet has detachable foams of different sizes, it will be easier to adapt to your body type. It must be checked that the foams at the forehead and the temples are well positioned to fulfill their role of maintenance and that they can properly absorb perspiration, thus preventing it from falling into your eyes. 
Regarding the side straps, they must cross under the ears. Keep enough strap length to adjust your settings in the winter, so you can do a cap or a helmet cap.

Adjusting your road bike helmet

To properly adjust your bike helmet so you can wear it for hours without worry, here are some simple tips:
  1. Loosen the rear adjustment knob as far as possible
  2. Position your bike helmet on your head and tighten the knob until the helmet is tight without disturbing you. You must not feel any pain or you will not be able to bear it during your bike ride!
  3. Move your head from left to right and make some quick movements of the head (as if you say “yes-no”): the helmet must not move and must follow your movements like a second skin. If it tends to turn around your head, just adjust with the rear wheel, always without hurting or constrain you at the forehead and temples. 
    Very important also, the helmet should not be worn on the back of the skull. The front of your helmet should arrive just above your eyebrows.
  4. Finally, adjust the chinstrap (the strap at the throat) and the side straps to prevent the helmet from jumping from your head. The straps should be close to the face but not too much to avoid friction and their crossing must be under the ears.

Weight, materials, details that make the difference (price)

The difference between an entry-level bike helmet model and another high-end bike is about weight, materials, and finishes. Depending on the level of the range, you will have helmets ranging from 230 g, such as Kask Protone or Giro Synthe to 270 g for a classic B’twin helmet. 
For a budget ranging from thirty euros to … nearly three hundred. In cycling, the gram won is expensive!
The most common technique for reducing the weight of bicycle helmets is in-molding, which consists of molding the outer shell directly onto the inner layer of polystyrene, thus making them completely integral and creating a much more rigid (and lightweight) set. The outer shell provides strength while the internal structure absorbs shocks. 95% of the helmets use this technique.
Other details that make the difference are the internal foams that can be removable, with antimicrobial treatment (not to impede perspiration) and machine washable; the chin strap can be leather for comfort; openings specially provided for spectacles; gel inserts to increase comfort and support, the number of ventilation channels (the Giro Synthe and the Kask Mojito have 26 where a B’twin has 16).
You can find very good helmets from € 50, or if you want to spend more, the Kask Mojito around € 100 is a good alternative. There is a bike helmet for all budgets and for all heads, no excuse not to wear one!

Which road bike helmet to choose for a child?

Since March 22, 2017, bicycle helmets are mandatory for children under 12 years old. So if you transport or accompany a child under 12 years old without a helmet, you risk a fine of 90 euros. Take care of the equipment pitches!
The ranking is achieved by retaining weight, ventilation, comfort and its price for a child helmet size.

Golf is a complex challenge sport, a game of trial and error, and players make mistakes from time to time. For amateurs and untrained eyes, playing golf is as easy as placing the ball and hitting it with all one’s strength.
Golf Errors
Sometimes the power swing ends up ruining a shot by hitting the wrong part of the ball. How can amateur golfers avoid some of the 10 common swing mistakes and improve their chances of winning and enjoying the game? Read more!

1. Power without technique

For starters, the momentum of a baseball is different from the momentum of a golf club. It may seem that hitting a golf ball requires all your strength. However, a powerful swing will ruin a perfect shot when it hits the wrong part of the ball.
It is important to slow down on your movements if you cannot always hit the golf ball in the right place. Achieving a powerful and winning swing requires strength and technique on the part of the player.
Do not hit too hard either. The problem is that too many golfers think that by hitting too hard, they will get the perfect shot.
Golfers want more power and distance, which makes them swing too fast and too hard. A faster swing will technically provide a longer shot but the ball may be stuck in the center of the club face.
The average golfer may not have the skills to provide a great swing that gives the ball a clean shot.
However, once you slow down, this gives enough time for the momentum to occur in proper order. In addition to getting a sharp shot, it leaves you with enough distance and more consistency.

2. Use too many arms

You will notice that professional golfers swing their whole body and not just their arms. Beginners try to swing their arms alone when they learn to swing a club.
There is no leverage, and it ruins what would be a perfect shot. We must admit that it is a bad habit that people take along the way and that we have to unlearn it.

3. Rigidity

Most people will assume that golfers do not need to be fit. After all, swinging a golf ball is not a muscle task. For starters, being fit allows you to swing your entire body for the perfect shot. Golf movements must be flexible and fluid.
New golfers often focus on the best typing technique and forget to be flexible. Being stiff locks all the joints of their body while doing so.
All golfers should learn to relax, breathe deeply and swing gently. Also, do a little warm-up exercise before starting the game.

4. Misalignment

What comes to mind when you think about alignment during a round of golf? Imagine the alignment of two railroad tracks on a railway. The rails go in the same direction, but one of the rails is slightly offset but not at the exact point.
How do professional golfers align their shots? It’s not rocket science. Most golfers, especially new players, rarely pay attention to their alignments. Bad moves are often to blame for bad moves, but the player’s alignment was not good.
How do players get the best alignment? Pay particular attention to your feet by not pointing them towards your target. They must be parallel to the target line.
It takes a bit of practice and consistency to do it. Correct alignment must be maintained at all times. Even professional players continue to check their alignment.
How can you get a good alignment during the workout? Use alignment rods or your golf clubs while you practice. Also, have someone, probably a professional, check your alignment and determine if it is correct.

5. Handle weak or too tight

Should you keep your club too tight or too loose? This is a major concern, especially for new players. What is the perfect grip for a perfect swing?
Seizing the club too tight or too loose is a common mistake. Maybe some golfers think someone will grab their golf club from their hands and run away with it.
Others will hold it too tight until you see the veins burst. The disadvantage is that it slows the swing by making the muscles inefficient and stiff.
A bad and weak grip gives rise to an unfortunate sequence of disastrous events too. Golfers should understand that your grip is the only contact you have with the golf club.
It must be firm and not too tight or loose. Your grip should put your body at ease, making swinging the ball easy and effortless. You do not risk letting go of the club of your hand or stiffen your body, thanks to a bad grip.

6. Zero acceleration

Imagine this: Does anyone learn to drive a manual shift car and step on the accelerator pedal as it should when releasing the clutch? What happens next? The car will stop and pick up.
Back to golf, your body needs a good acceleration to reach the desired swing.
One of the signs of poor acceleration is the deceleration of momentum forward as if you were trying to recover the ball.
This shows a lack of confidence in making a swing. It’s important to create a swing that builds up to a gentle speed. Good acceleration goes hand in hand with good timing.

7. Everything is in the timing

Sometimes, golfers complicate things on their own. For example, they take a short swing backward with the club and rush forward at maximum speed to stop it.
Sometimes you can hit the club too far and rush ahead with him. A good golf game requires a well-timed, unhurried and fluid swing.
Timing is an important aspect of a productive and perfect swing. The rule of the game is to practice good timing in a repetitive way to ensure consistency.

8. Shoot the flag

If you are not Bubba Watson, do not hesitate to aim for the flag. Otherwise, you must aim at the center of the putting green and proceed from it.
Playing from the center of the green, coupled with first-rate tying techniques, will give more satisfying results. Putting has a high success rate and leaves heroism to the softball team.

9. Do not get the full shoulder

Leverage, swinging a golf ball, gives real power. If you can not do a full shoulder, you will not get the leverage.
Most golfers turn their shoulders by bending their left arm to try to extend a back swing movement. It reduces power and wind on your shoulders.

10. Fun habits that will cost you dearly

Some of the bad habits of golfers are very expensive. For example, do you keep checking your phone during a round?
It’s an entertaining habit that will make you lose even in an easy game. Put away your phone and focus on the game at hand.
What is your reaction to a bad game session? It is normal to get angry about small things like mistakes in a round of golf.
When the game becomes inexplicably sour, or you get bad shots, do not make tantrums or anger. Learn how to handle all situations with a lot of calm and peace.
Most golfers will not watch the ball. You hit the ball with a terrible blow and you wait for the sky to answer you. Meanwhile, your ball is sitting somewhere in the woods and you wonder where it landed. Always be the attentive guy who watches the ball.
It is not permissible to blame others for your misfortunes. Learn to recognize your mistakes and learn from them. Play must be a learning process without blaming others.
Also, stop complaining about the game. There is nothing attractive to complain about. Keep whining, and you will lose friends in the process.


We all know that even professional golfers will get a great swing all the time. Sometimes the game starts perfectly, and one aspect ruins the game. Consistency and skill separate good and bad players.
It is not practical to walk to the tee once, get a good move and stick to it. Fans and professionals should strive to learn the basics of the game, practice it consistently and apply it to every game.
I hope you have found this tutorial useful as it will help you improve your next golf interactions. Let me know what you think and share the article with others!
Wind; that factor so necessary for sports disciplines such as windsurfing or sailing, but as impertinent for other sports as, in this case, tennis.
Today, I come from losing a game in which the wind has ended by exhausting my patience and my desire to play. However, after a good shower of hot water, I have been able to reflect on everything I have done wrong on the track and, as a result of that reflection, I have decided to write today on this subject.
We have to bear in mind that most of the tracks in Spain and Latin America are outdoors. In this way, the weather conditions are going to significantly influence the course of our tennis day.
The rain, directly, forces us to suspend the session. However, the wind (unless it is hurricane) does allow us to play, but it is a handicap with which we must deal. Next, we will review some useful recommendations so that we remain competitive when the wind makes an appearance.

move on

If we normally have to be very active on our legs when we play on a normal day, on windy days we have to be even more dynamic. The wind disturbs in a capricious way the trajectory of the ball and we have to move very quickly to get in the right place and be able to hit the ball correctly.

Adjust the preparation of your strokes

For the same reason that we have to move with greater explosiveness, it is also necessary that we calibrate our swing very well. Since we do not know exactly under which conditions we are going to receive the ball from the other side of the net, it is advisable that we shorten the preparation of the hit and be ready to release the arm at any time.

The service

If like me, you are one of those who throws the ball into the exosphere in the execution of the service, you will suffer a lot on windy days. The higher the height at which you throw the ball, the more likely it is that the wind will move it and make an error. Therefore, in these conditions, try to cut the launch as much as possible to avoid too many inaccuracies with your service.

The auction

Be careful with auctions! If before we said that it is counterproductive to throw the ball high in the service, with the auction we must also have special caution. If you are willing to let the ball bounce before hitting it, do it. Do not rush and be patient, because the risk with wind is a true suicide.

The effects

Forget about hitting the plane and being aggressive. Instead, measure your strokes well and play with the topspin effect. No adjustments to the lines and try to spend more balls than your opponent. The cut balls can also be a good trick on windy days since the irregularity of the boat can dislocate even more to your opponent.
The fact of risking will bring with it a long history of errors; no matter how good you are, the unpredictability of the wind will end up unsettling you if you intend to play as on a calm day.

Keep Calm

It is evident that the errors will come. If we have always insisted that tennis is a sport in which we live with error, in the days of wind, this premise takes an even greater role. For that reason, do not get discouraged by sticking incomprehensible rods or hitting a ball at the wrong time; Simply, understand that this is part of a windy context and try to be more attentive at the next point.
You want to progress to tennis and improve your game? Opt for a tennis racket adapted to your game! It will become a true ally and not a ball … It is often difficult to choose from a significant offer of snowshoes and brands. So that you can see more clearly, we will give you some tips so that you can find the tennis racket that suits you, in order to progress effectively and above all, take pleasure.
An unsuitable tennis racket can be a drag on the game. What are the possible impacts on your tennis practice?
  • Your pleasure during the game :
    • You lose your feelings, those that allowed you to develop a coherent game.
    • Your game will be less fluid.
    • You will not be able to take as much pleasure as with an adapted racket of tennis.
Playing tennis will become less pleasant, which can demotivate you and take away the fun that brought you to play this sport.
  • Your progress could be slowed down. Improve your game will be longer and will require efforts, often unsuccessful.
  • An unsuitable tennis racket can also lead to injury. It plays a role in the occurrence of injuries such as:
    • Injuries
    • Tendinitis at the wrist
    • Shoulder injuries
These more or less serious inconveniences will affect your pleasure of the game, perhaps even forcing you to have to stop your practice for a while.
In order to avoid all these problems, we give you now some tips to find you there. The technical data sheets of tennis rackets will not be a secret anymore for you!


The technical characteristics of a tennis racket are very important. They are the ones who will determine the type of tennis racket that suits you. Indeed, racket organizers carefully study each of them so that they perfectly match a certain level and a certain type of game. That’s why each tennis racket adapts to certain people and no to others.


  • The composition: Most tennis rackets are made of carbon fiber, to make the racket stronger and lighter, so more maneuverable.
  • Weight (unstrung): This weight is on average between 270 and 350 grams.
    When you look at the weight of a tennis racket, you must take into account your level of play so you can determine if it will be manageable enough for you.
    A relatively high weight will offer less maneuverability but will be ideal for players at a very good level. On the contrary, a relatively low weight will offer more maneuverability and will be ideal for beginners.
  • The size of the sieve: It influences the type of game (powerful or control) and the comfort of the game.
  • The equilibrium (unstrung): It can be located in three places: at the neck, at the head, in the center.
    For competitors and experienced players, it can be modified to optimize the performance of the player. Just have your racquet prepared by a professional.
  • The length: It is on average 68.5 cm. This format is applied for most tennis rackets. You may find “XL” rackets longer than 29 cm.
  • Rigidity, calculated in Rahmen (Ra): Between 60 and 70 Rahmen. When you are a beginner, high stiffness is recommended. As your level improves, you can relax the rope to be less rigid.
  • The string plan: This is the number of horizontal and vertical strings on a tennis racket. Each string layout favors a type of play. Several variations exist: 16 × 19 – 16 × 16 and 18 × 16 – 18 × 20
  • The profile of the racket (ie the width/thickness of the racket profile): The standard size of a profile is about 22mm. The size of this profile is variable. Depending on its thickness, one can determine which type of game the tennis racket is made.
  • The size of the handle (its diameter, its size): This criterion is important to avoid injuries and play comfortably. The technique is to let an index finger between the tips of your fingers and the palm of your hand when you hold the handle of your racket.
The general goals and objectives  of this modernization are the Rules of Golf:
  • Be more understandable and applicable by all golfers
  • Be more coherent, simple and just; and
  • Reinforce the principles and long-standing intrinsic character of the game.
  • Use concepts, procedures and consequences that are more intuitive and easier to learn;
  • Use a consistent approach for similar situations;
  • Avoid unnecessary concepts, inappropriate penalties, and exceptions that may create “penalty traps” for the player; and
  • Encourage broader goals for the game, such as promoting a faster pace of play and better environmental management.
Rules of Golf
Summary of some major changes to the Rules 
When things happen to your ball in Game
1 Ball at rest accidentally moved
  • You accidentally move your ball by searching for it:  there is no  more penalty
  • You accidentally move your ball or your ball-marker when they are on the green: there is no  longer a penalty
2 Replace a moved or raised ball
  • New procedure when you do not know the exact place where your ball rested  : You must put the ball back  to its original estimated location  (rather than drop the ball at that location); and if that esteemed spot were on, under, or against elements that grow or fix (like grass), you must  put the ball back on, under, or against those elements.
3 Ball in motion accidentally deflected
  • Your moving ball accidentally hits you, your equipment, your caddy, someone who took the flag in charge for you, or a flag removed or taken care of: there is no  longer a penalty  (as when your ball bounces on the face of a bunker and hits you)

Take a Clearance
 Drop a Ball into a Defined Area of ​​Clearance 
  • Different Drop Procedure: Instead of dropping the ball at shoulder height, the ball will now have to be dropped at knee height (ie the height of a player’s knee when standing)
  •  Clearance zone: the ball must always be dropped in a clear zone and it must always be played from this zone,  whereas currently, it must drop either in an area, or as close as possible to a specific point, or on a line. The different cases where a bullet had to be dropped are considerably simplified.
  • Fixed dimensions define the clearance zone: Depending on the case the zone will be one or two club lengths: a club length being defined as the length of the longest club in your bag, except for the putter.
2 Lost ball 
  • Reduced Time for Ball Search: A ball is lost if it is not found within three minutes (instead of the current five minutes) after you have started searching for it.
3 Ball depressed
  • Clearance for a Ball Depressed into the General Area  :  You can clear if your ball is pushed all over (except in the sand) into the general area (which is the new term for the “course”),  unless a Local Rule restricts the ball clearance to fairway or similar areas (which is the reverse of the default procedure that is in the current Rules).
4 Ball to use when taking a clearance
  • Substitute another ball: You may continue to use the original ball or change the ball each time you take a Clearance under a Rule, whether it is with or without penalty.
Special rules for specific parts of the course
 1 The Green
  • Putter with the flag left in the hole: There is more penalty if you play a ball from the green and it hits the flag left in the hole.
  • Repairing damage to the green: You can repair a lot of damage (including nail marks and animal damage)  on the green (rather than being limited to repairing only bullet holes and old caps) holes).
  • Touch your line of putt or touch the green indicating the target: There is more penalty if you or your caddy do any of these things, as long as it does not improve the conditions affecting your shot.
  • Replace your ball if it moves after having already marked, lifted and replaced: Whenever it happens on the putting green, you return your ball to its original location –  even if it was pushed by the wind or moved for no clear reason.
  • Your cadet marks and raises your ball on the green: There is no penalty if your cadet does this without your explicit permission to do so.
2 penalty areas
  • Generalized penalty zones in addition to water obstacles: The “Penalty Zones” marked by red and yellow stakes can now cover areas that the Committee decides to mark for this purpose (such as deserts, ravines, volcanic rock fields, or potentially hazardous areas),  in addition to areas with water.
  • Removal of Clearance Option on Opposite Edge: You can no longer clear a red penalty area on the edge opposite the one last entered in the penalty zone  (unless the Committee adopts a Local Rule authorizing it).
  • Lifting all specific restrictions on the movement or touch of things in a penalty zone:There is no longer a penalty if you remove or move rubbish (such as leaves, stones, and pieces of wood) or touch the ground with your hand or club in a penalty zone. Even if your ball lies in this penalty area.
3 Bunkers
  • Authorization to remove trash: There is no penalty if you touch or move trash in a bunker even if your ball lies in the bunker.
  • Relaxed restrictions on touching sand with your hand or club when your ball is in a bunker  : You are now only allowed to touch the sand (1) with your hand or club to  test the condition of the bunker or (2) with your club in  the area just behind or in front of your ball, doing a trial move or in the backward motion of your shot .
  • New release option for an unplayable ball: With two penalty strokes, you can get outof the bunker by dropping a ball back on the line joining the hole and where your ball was resting in the bunker.
Equipment that you are allowed to use
 1 damaged clubs
  • Using damaged clubs: You can continue to use a club that has been damaged during the turn, regardless of how it happened (for example even if you damaged it in a gesture of anger).
  • Replacement of damaged clubs: You can not replace a damaged club unless you are not responsible for the damage.
2 Distance measuring devices
  • Permitted distance measuring devices: You can use distance measuring devices unless it is prohibited by a Local Rule (the opposite of what exists in the current Rules).

How to prepare and make a shot
  • Enhanced restrictions on alignment assistance: Your cadet is not allowed to stand on a line behind you from the moment you start taking your stance until you have completed your stroke. No more opportunities for the cadet to align his player before the shot.
Promote a faster pace of play
  • You are encouraged to play faster: It is recommended that you make each move in no more than 40 seconds  –  and usually faster than that  – once it’s your turn to play.
  • Playing out-turn in stroke play (Golf “Ready to play”): This has always been allowed without penalty, but now you are strongly urged to do so to save time but in a responsible and safe manner.
  • New form of stroke play  : The Rules recognize a new form of stroke play “Maximum Score”, where your score for a hole is capped at a maximum (such as double or triple bogey) set by the Committee, so that you can raise your ball and move to the next hole when your score will have reached or exceeded that maximum.
Promote high standards of player behavior and trust player integrity
There is no longer a separate section for the label, but the major principles that it puts forward are now integrated into the Rules: acting with integrity, having consideration for others and taking care of the course.
  • Playing in the spirit of the game: New provisions are added to reinforce the highstandards of behavior expected of all players on the field and it is at the discretion of the Committees to disqualify players for bad behavior that does not respect this code.
  • Code of the behavior of the player: the Committees have authority to be able to adopt their own code of behavior of the player and to impose penalties in case of infringement with the norms of this code.
  • Eliminating the need to announce the intention to lift the ball  : When you have a good reason to lift your ball to identify it, to see if it is cut or split or to see if you are allowed to clear (such as to see if your ball is depressed), you are no  longer required to pre-announce  to another player or marker that you intend to do so or to give that person the opportunity to observe the process .
  • Interpreting Reasonable Judgment: When you need to estimate or measure a place, point, line, area or distance under a Rule,  your reasonable judgment will not be reconsidered because of later information ( such as video)  if you did everything you could reasonably expect in these circumstances to accurately estimate or measure.

10 basic principles for learning to play football

Dad of two children footballers for 2 years, the principles that I expose below are based on:
– the observation of the training of different clubs
– the observation of training and qualified trainers
– the observation of the teams during matches
– the discussion with several coaches
– the observation of the players and professional teams (during the meetings to television)
– reading websites
These rules are so obvious and basic that you do not have to be a graduate, or an expert to understand and accept them.
But yet, many trainers do not seem to know and apply them.

1) 90% of playing time WITH ball. Do not run without balloon

– Have one ball per child in training AND warm-up matches.
– Handle the ball from the beginning to the end of the training.
– Avoid long queues and periods of inactivity. (The queues must be done with a balloon so that the child can start his exercise immediately, without waiting for him to return a balloon.)
– Invite the children to handle the ball regularly at home ( foam ball in a room of the house for those who have no room around their house)
– Avoid long speeches during training, before a match. It is better to show than to explain theoretically.
– During “time out”, while waiting for the coach, wait for the placement of the cones, let the children handle the ball, juggle.
The best technicians are the children who play every day with a ball, at home, against a wall, at school, on the street, at the playground, …
– The only times when the child has to run without a ball, are the times when the child asks for the ball, stands out to receive a ball
– Even the warm-up and the “traditional” rounds of the field must be done with the ball.

2) Turn exercises into games, into challenges.

– Time the exercise and try to break his record
– Do the exercise as a run (relay)
– Count the number of successes in as many minutes.
These challenges motivate and increase the player’s desire to apply and excel.

3) Favor duels and dribbles in training as in the match

– Nothing is easier than making a pass. On the other hand, nothing is more complicated than to dribble a man. That’s why it’s important to learn from the youngest age to dribble before teaching them how to pass. A technician will easily become a good smuggler. On the other hand, a good smuggler will not easily become a good technician.
However, what is most lacking in Belgian football are players capable of passing a man (like the Spanish, Italians, Portuguese, Brazilians, Argentineans, Dutch, Africans)
– Each training must offer dribbling exercises, duels where the child is to dribble.
– Each match should encourage players to dribble a man, especially when no player is available forwards.

4) Touch the ball with ALL parts of BOTH feet

A good technician is someone who can touch the ball with any part of the foot, in any position.
Indeed, the situations of games force players to play fast and do not take the time to place to shoot or get off to a good start.
That’s why you have to know how to play by being misplaced.
– Each exercise must be offered in both directions, once to the left, once to the right of the field, once with the left foot, once with the right foot.
– It is necessary to force the child to handle the ball with his bad good.
– The child must learn how to handle the ball with the inside, the outside, the bottom, the top, the heel and sometimes even with the tip of the foot.

5) Lift your head

To make good passes, at the right time, it is important for the child to learn to play by raising his head regularly.

6) A ball near the foot

Teach the child to run with the ball close to the foot.

7) Lots of play time

The game of imps takes place at 5 against 5 and 2 x 25 minutes.
Registering too few teams or selecting 10 players prevents children from playing and therefore learning.
Selecting 6 players (5 to 7) is enough to make a team and give a lot of play time to everyone.
Similarly, training of 1 hour per week is far too little, especially for children who do not handle the ball home.
1h30 to 3h of training per week is a good average + the handling of the ball at home

8) Know how to lose and want to win

It is by losing that we learn. It is by making mistakes that we learn.
It is, therefore, necessary to teach the child to want to win by knowing how to lose.
The coach needs to look for performance, surpassing himself by facing stronger teams.
The coach must put his team in a slightly stronger category than his team so that the players do not get bored so that his team will never win with more than 5 goals apart.
For this, it is important to PREPARE children and parents to lose by explaining to them that it is important to learn.
Too many players give up when they lose. Too many parents criticize the coach or the kids when they lose and make mistakes.
A team that knows how to lose is a team that will learn and becomes very strong afterward.

9) Control and control oriented

Throw the ball and stop it next to you. Make long passes and cushion the ball. Deviate the trajectory of the balloon by accompanying it.
Here are some useful exercises to develop control.

10) The placement

Learn as soon as possible to never go to TWO on the ball.
Learn to place yourself in the free zones of the field when you have the ball
and in the recovery zones (close to the opponents, or behind the teammate who attacks in case he is dribbling) when you do not have the ball.